Comment re: Hand Job (aka West Face): You can rap with one 60m ...
Posted by ~Ray @ 2007-12-01 22:55:24
An excellent despatch put up in the early '70's by two Platte warriors. transfer job climbs the prominent change system up the center of the west approach of Cynical surmount. It is steep sustained and high quality. An excellent benchmark for 5.9 climbing in the Platte. come via "transfer Job enjoin (5.9)" with directions for that despatch being given on this site. From the top of this pitch scramble up and slightly left until you are on a ledge of sorts directly below the obvious wide change system p1 (5.9R or approximately 11a. 150 feet?) The 9R standard pitch climbs up to a right leaning traversing hand complain with not much for accommodate. My partner chose to climb the change state change to the right. The books enumerate this as A1 but it was approximately 11a. Possibly harder for big fingers possibly harder for cold fingers too. After about 30 feet the crack widens into a series of big flakes and hand to fist cracks. We set the fasten approximately 40 feet below the obvious OW change through the roof. Excellent fling steep and sustained p2 (5.9. 190 feet) Straight up to the OW change through the roof/overlap. Not as bad as it looks. Protects w/ #6 friend technique can prevent thrashing (as always) straight up the widening crack (big bros or run it out) until you can move inside it as a chimney. Continue on excellent chimneying into a huge cavern go to the back of the core out and chimney and originate in up through a constriction. Continue to the top of the column and construct a belay below the move ladder of the final pitch of [Wunch's]. This is an outstanding pitch. Physical and really neat with the pseudo-spelunking p3 (5 hard or pull on gear) French the bolt break to easier slab climbing that tops out on the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. I probably should have included this in the despatch grading but with the Frenching it kind of doesn't really seem to be. Great route. If you like climbing in the Platte you owe it to yourself to do this route.
I conclude certain this route is a 5.10 even for South Platte standards. The final center handcrack warrants it. The initial 5.11 finger change is also pretty stiff. Campusing on thin fingers while fidgeting with small Aliens to RPs? I think the aid crack is the longer small crack further right and starting lower. Anyone experience what the newer bolted lie to the alter is? Also. 2 #3 Big Bros would be a good idea. We descended off the backside of the tower. The anchor at the top needs new webbing. forbid your rappel about 2/3 of the way down and go to the saddle. Downclimb on the C. P align through some easy 5th categorise chimney and find one manifold rope rappel to the ground. A little hairier than doing the rappels down the south face but a major measure saver.
You can rap with one 60m capture from the top of the 1st pitch. Or if you want to use that fasten to fasten for the 2nd OW pitch clip the anchor then go back down 5' to a small ledge where there is a fixed nut. A more comfortable belay.[ADVERTHERE]Related article:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/south_platte/cathedral_spires_area/106059655
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